Missouri — Mississippi River

Day 72 Mississippi River

Wind, big waves and a cloud covered sky. A challenging day on the river makes for a rewarding evening camped on the shore. Struggle is the process of growth.

In the afternoon the persistent headwind picked up force. With waves whipping in the main channel a few feet high I stuck to the shore line in hopes of mitigating my exposure to the open water. Large rock dams built horizontal to the rivers current stretch from one shore out into the main channel. Wing dams, as they are called, were constructed in the early days of commercial traffic on the Miss in hopes of forcing more water into the main channel, with the idea being more water means more depth and easier transport for large steamboats.

Navigating the Wing dams in my canoe, however, is almost always interesting and/or challenging. The dams create odd currents and standing waves that form at an angle and can be tricky to navigate.

The Wing dams and strengthening wind had finally forced my hand. Around 2pm I pulled off the river, finding wind shelter tucked behind a structure. After an hour or so of waiting for a break, I hopped back in the boat and worked a short distance to Caruthersville, MO, a town of about 6,000 folk.

Video, Storms, MissouriWill CollinsMay 31, 2019CaruthersvilleComment

Day 71 Mississippi River - T for Tennessee

Nov. 1, 2017

As I write this, I'm lying in my tent, which is pitched on a small patch of ground that looked flat enough when setting up. Once I lied down after a solid afternoon and evening, however, I have found out that it's definitely not flat. A fairly steep angled slope should make the night interesting. I've also squashed two small spiders and removed one ear worm/centipede from the tent floor. It ain't all glamorous living on the loose.

The day began with rain. Expecting the weather, I had set up a taught tarp to avoid having to pack a went tent. Around 8am I got up and walked outside to find low hanging clouds moving quickly across the sky. As I reentered the tent and began to pack up my sleeping bag and blanket the rain picked up again. The next three hours consisted of me lying in bed dozing in and out of sleep to the sound of rain tapping the tarp overhead, telling myself to just get up and get on with it. I cooked breakfast and made coffee under the tarp.

Missouri, Tennessee, Storms, VideoWill CollinsMay 31, 2019New MadridComment

Day 68, 69 Mississippi River

After grabbing breakfast with Ken and Michelle I pushed off into the water around noon. A sunny but chilly day ensued.

An hour or so before sunset I settled on a large sandbar and cooked up a good ol' fashion driftwood bonfire. Temps both nights hovered in the mid to upper 30s.

Day 69 marked a mile stone, as I passed Cairo, IL - the southern most city of Illinois, and the Illinois Kentucky border. Cairo also marks the confluence of the Ohio River, which drains much of the Easter United States. By the time it reaches the Mississippi, the Ohio is just as large if not larger than the Miss! With more water flowing in, the width of the Mississippi seemed to double. It's a real big river now!

Illinois, MissouriWill CollinsMay 31, 2019CarioComment

Day 66, 67 Mississippi River

The morning helped me to confirm that a stop in Cape Girardeau was the right move. Cold, rainy and overcast skies made me thankful to have a warm bed and roof over my head.

A slow morning gave way to a lunch stop in downtown Cape with Ken and Michelle. After a BBQ pork sandwich we cruised back to the house. As Ken headed back into work for the evening I knocked out a grocery store stop at Walmart. Oatmeal, peanut butter sandwich crackers, pretzels, apples, canned dinners and ramen noodles filled my shopping cart.

For dinner Michelle and I ate at a local Mexican joint near the campus of South East Missouri State, or SEMO, as it's known around town. A late night sucked in the couch watching game 3 of the Dodgers Astros World Series followed.

As Saturday morning (day 67) rolled around I was convinced by Michelle to stay one more night (at least one more, in her words). With a frost warning in effect for the evening and sub freezing temps into the early morning I was easily swayed. Add in the opportunity to watch College football all day and I was definitely swayed.

Missouri, Good PeopleWill CollinsMay 31, 2019Cape GirardeauComment

Day 65 Mississippi River

10-26-17

The morning made way for a clear and sunny start to the day. Temperatures have been dipping into the low 40s and high 30s overnight, and with the sun out today, by mid afternoon it was in the low 60s.

By the time afternoon rolled around I began trying to devise a plan for the coming days. The forecast called for clouds, rain, and cool temps for the next two days. As I looked at the map I noticed I was closing in on Cape Girardeau, Missouri. Trying to pull any contacts I had, I remembered that an old roommates parents lived in Cape G. Three years ago, and for about one year, I lived with Avary (and 3 others) in a house near the University of Denver. Each month I would write a rent check and mail it to Cape Girardeau, and I remember the town now likely because each month I would have to look up how to spell it (still never sure if I get it right...)

I shot Avary a message asking if her folks still lived in town and if they may be willing to put me up for a night or two to get out of some poor weather. Shortly after, I heard back from Avary with the green light. Awesome.

Missouri, Good PeopleWill CollinsMay 31, 2019Cape GirardeauComment

Day 60 Mississippi River

I woke up at Richfield in the darkness of early morning. After a great nights sleep and a day off the river I planned to get my first sunrise paddle of the trip in. I used the gator that Dennis had left me to load up all my gear (including freshly washed clothes and refilled water) and drive it down to the waterfront where my boat was tied up.

When all was said and done I pushed off into the Miss around 6:20am. As darkness worked its way into dawn a cloudy sky and numerous Islands on the eastern shore stole what I was hoping to be a memorable sunrise. Rather than an orange haze painting the sky, the sun decided to work its way over the tree tops while hiding behind cloud cover, only to emerge hours later overhead.

Clouds covered the sky throughout the day, joined at times by a significant headwind which caused rolling waves on and off again.

Illinois, Missouri, Good PeopleWill CollinsMay 31, 2019Comment

Day 58 Mississippi River

Day 58, a Video Blog

Illinois, Missouri, VideoWill CollinsMay 28, 2019WinfieldComment

Day 57 Mississippi River

The old time trappers/commercial fisherman were up and at it around sunrise. I laid in the tent, listening to them bark and banter with each other about the most efficient way to get the net in. The wench the crew used to hoist in the net full of fish made a loud chugging noise.

By the time I got up the net was about halfway in. I made breakfast and coffee before waltzing over to the fellas to see how the haul faired. To me, it looked like a decent load, but as I got closer and started chatting with them it was clear they were not impressed.

"They all got out overnight. 2 days worth of work for nothing...."

Spirits were low. The night before the guys had hoped to take home 30 to 40 thousand pounds, which by their estimation would take two full days of loading fishing into the boat, hauling them to the boat ramp and coming back for another load. By the time the net came in not even half of one boat was fully loaded.

Missouri, Mississippi Stories, Good PeopleWill CollinsMay 28, 2019Clarksville, Asian CarpComment

Day 55 Mississippi River

Once again I slept in, lulled by the comfort of a soft bed. I walked downstairs to find a cup of Joe and Jane.

After a bagel and egg sandwich I began packing up all the gear scattered across Janes garage and began tossing it in the back of the Jeep. By 10:30am or so we were loaded up with the canoe strapped to the roof rack.

We hopped in the car and Jane drove me past Gary's work at Gardner- Denver and dropped me off below Lock #21 in Quincy, IL. Crashing waves splashed and teetered the boat with every pass as I worked to load the canoe. The rolling waves forced a quick thank you and goodbye between Jane and I.

I pushed off and hit the water around 11:30am, feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. The day brought sun and a slight headwind along with a quick current.

I worked my way South, making it past Hannibal, MO and passing through Lock #22 a few hours before sunset.

Illinois, MissouriWill CollinsMay 28, 2019Quincy, HannibalComment

Day 54 Mississippi River

After sleeping in, I walked downstairs to be greeted by Jane and a waiting cup of coffee. Scrambled eggs, fried breakfast sausage and buttered toast soon followed.

Garry had headed back to the lake earlier in the morning to attend to a few tasks before heading out to Milwaukee for work in the afternoon.

Following breakfast and small talk I came to the conclusion that it made sense to stay the night with Jane and Garry again this evening. Game 2 of the NLCS, plus the opportunity to go to the grocery store and make the short trip to check out Hannibal, MO was all too good to pass up. After making the decision I retreated to my room to knock out some writing while Jane worked on finding recipes and ingredients for a family get together at the lake this coming weekend.

Missouri, Illinois, Good PeopleWill CollinsMay 28, 2019Hannibal, Mark TwainComment

Day 53 Mississippi River

I woke up early to cloud covered skies and enough of a headache that I contemplated my decisions the night before. The forecast called for on and off rain throughout the morning, with it picking it in the late afternoon.

I packed up the tent and made breakfast under the cover of an overhang that protected the deck of a beautiful log cabin home that Pam rents out on a nightly basis (the cabin was unoccupied.....I hope).

I hit the water and began working my way South toward a rendezvous in Quincy, IL. An old college friend of my Moms (whom she hadn't seen in 25+ years!) had been following the journey and offered to put me up for the evening.

Illinois, Iowa, Good People, Video, MissouriWill CollinsMay 28, 2019Quincy, CantonComment

Day 52 Mississippi River - The Warsaw Brewing Company

With sunny skies and a slight breeze I did my best to dry out wet gear.

As I paddled through the day my solar charger replenished both my phone and speaker battery, meaning music was rolling in the boat.

The river hard turned into what for all intense purpose was a massive lake. Extremely wide with no islands to duck behind for wind cover, I paddled into a slight headwind. Passing Fort Maddison, IA and Nauvoo, IL the river was at its widest point to date. A beautiful, large white church peered out towards the water from a hill near Nauvoo.

Around 5pm I pulled up to lock 19 near Keokuk, IA. As I entered what is the longest lock on the Mississippi, I asked the Lock master if he knew of a good spot to pitch a tent for the night. First, he recommended some of the islands down river, then he told me of a restaurant just down the way, the Warsaw Brewing Company.

Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Good People, Mississippi StoriesWill CollinsMay 27, 2019Nauvoo, Keokuk, Fort MadisonComment

103 Days. 2,300+ solo miles. A pen, pad, camera and the adventure of a lifetime. Crossing America by Canoe. A Mississippi River story.