Posts in Tennessee
Day 78 Mississippi River

As Kelly was walking out the door to work in the morning, I jumped off the couch, remembering that we needed a picture before she left.

Once gone I retreated back to the couch for a few more ZZZs. The plan for today was to get back on the river and put a few miles between Memphis and me. Before I had remembered that Kelly lived in Memphis, a fellow named Bill had reached out to me on Facebook, offering to put me up or help in anyway once I got to town. I stayed in loose contact with him throughout my stay, and now it was time to cash in on his offer. After a quick call the plan was set. Bill would meet me at Kelly's and shuttle me to the river.

Sometime around Noon Bill pulled up in his sons classic green Land Rover Defender. We loaded up the gear into the whip and strapped down my canoe to the roof rack.

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Day 77 Mississippi River

Another gloomy morning met me on Kelly's couch. The folks I would run into in Memphis all lamented the fact that I was visiting during a stint of bad weather, but for me, it couldn't have been better. I would much rather be off the river and have a roof over my head during the poor weather than be paddling through rain and cold and clouds.

The plan today was to explore more of the city, make a run into Bass Pro Shops to get a few supplies, and hit a grocery store at some point. Armed with my skateboard and a backpack I cruised through downtown and rode Beale Street, weaving in and out of people and light posts, enjoying the ride.

I skated toward Bass Pro Shops along the river front, a nice walking path that stretched the rivers edge. Along the way I passed a few parks, some historical markers and a sign depicting the vital role the city of Memphis played in the Civil War.

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Day 76 Mississippi River - Memphis, Tennessee - Blues, Art and Civil Rights

I woke up on Kelly's couch and peered out the window towards the courtyard. Heavy rain was falling from a dark sky. Great day to be off the river.

Sometime in the late afternoon the rain held up and I took the opportunity to get outside and explore the city. With Kelly gone at work I grabbed an Uber and hit the Spaghetti Warehouse to fill a pasta craving. The rest of the afternoon was spent walking around downtown Memphis, exploring the murals that covered many of the city's brick walls and popping my head into any area that peaked my interest. One such place was an art gallery that featured portraits from the photographer Jack Robinson. Dozens of famous stars from the 60s and 70s, all shot by Robinson, lines the walls in black and white. Aretha Franklin, Nina Simone, Jack Nicholson, Elton John, Paul McCartney and Cher to name a few.

I also walked by the infamous Lorraine Motel, now home to National Civil Rights Museum. Preserved as it was on that fateful day in 1968, you can see the balcony that Dr. Martin Luther King stood on outside of room 306 as he was shot and killed. A replica of the wreath that was placed on the balcony the following day still marks the spot.

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Day 75 Mississippi River

I woke up with plans of reaching Memphis, Tennessee by mid afternoon. Just 24 miles down river, I figured I would make decent speed and stroll into the city with daylight to spare. Boy was I wrong.

A viscous headwind made progress difficult. With large whitecaps layering the main channel and waves crashing into shore I thought about stopping and chalking up a low mileage day to the wind. However, tomorrow's forecast is looking grim and with the thought of Memphis BBQ on my mind I reluctantly pushed on.

A few miles north of the city limits I decided to make a crossing to the opposite shore (toward Tennessee) in hopes of mitigating some of the wind. As I worked across the river rolling waves, several feet high, crashed into my boat. The bow took on water as it dipped under white capped breakers in the midst of the main channel. My mind began kicking into overdrive. A small portion of it reminded me of the stakes at hand (cold day, fast moving water about a half mile wide, and no one to help if things went bad), while I forced most of my head to focus on the task at hand; safely traversing the river.

Once across I was able to loosen the white knuckled grip on my paddle and be thankful to be near shore.

Just before the sun ducked behind the trees of Arkansas, the skyline of Memphis, Tennessee appeared to the east. As I approached I reached out to an old friend, Kelly, who lives in Memphis and offered to put me up of the night.

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Day 71 Mississippi River - T for Tennessee

Nov. 1, 2017

As I write this, I'm lying in my tent, which is pitched on a small patch of ground that looked flat enough when setting up. Once I lied down after a solid afternoon and evening, however, I have found out that it's definitely not flat. A fairly steep angled slope should make the night interesting. I've also squashed two small spiders and removed one ear worm/centipede from the tent floor. It ain't all glamorous living on the loose.

The day began with rain. Expecting the weather, I had set up a taught tarp to avoid having to pack a went tent. Around 8am I got up and walked outside to find low hanging clouds moving quickly across the sky. As I reentered the tent and began to pack up my sleeping bag and blanket the rain picked up again. The next three hours consisted of me lying in bed dozing in and out of sleep to the sound of rain tapping the tarp overhead, telling myself to just get up and get on with it. I cooked breakfast and made coffee under the tarp.

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